TIP31 feeding about 25 leds (audiorhytm circuit)

[Johanx2]

Absolutely correct! You can get *correct* stereophonic effect only at one *correct* position of the speakers and the listener. Fortunately the recording standards are more or less standard (few follows it) but the playback is yours and you only decide.

The original was probably recorded on several microphones, sometimes more than six, mixed by another engineer and finally recorded as L+R and L-R signals on a file. You are anyway hearing what they want you to hear. If you think that you are hearing what you would have been hearing if you were in the middle row in the theatre then you are very likely mistaken.

I find this all this more for movie audio system, I dont care too much when listening music, anyway with what I did here, the sound will flow in two different directions, giving interesting stereo sound, anyway I did not place the voice drivers as (west-east, that would be even something more separated but I think no better, 45 degre I think is the maximum tolerance to have a good stereo audio.

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Hey audioguro, I was thinking bad, and that 8" pyle subwoofer has double coil, which each one is 4 ohms, so if I connect it parallely, I would be able to get that highest amplified value for subwoofer (100w), which is not bad because what I set my bass volumen at 90%, will I still have the 10% distortion? dnot know how bad can 10% distorion sounds, but I think its a little and only audiophiles can complaint about it? is that so bad quality getting near to those 100w where distortion is? I think I will connect it at 2 ohms, no matter the distortion, and as I said, maybe its not noticiable keeping some distance to 100w, and having about 95% for example, which will be more that the subwoofer set at 4ohm. Also 4 ohms the little speakers are rated at 200w, surely 50w will sound mo re than enoought for me, and what reliefe if subwoofer can deliver a lot more so it also performs good movements. As I said, its a shame my shippings has a delay, probably will I get it in about one more week. Surely the heat sinks will heat if subwoofer setted at 2 ohms, but can add bigger heat stinks or a little fan.

 

[D.A.(Tony)Stewart]

you can support binaural hearing with dispersion from central speakers, but I suspect phase coherence is much worse and listener sweet spot not as large as separated towers.

 

[Audioguru]

Hey audioguro, I was thinking bad, and that 8" pyle subwoofer has double coil, which each one is 4 ohms, so if I connect it parallely, I would be able to get that highest amplified value for subwoofer (100w)

I looked at Pyle's website and could not find that subwoofer. Their PDIWS8 is rated at 150W RMS and has "4-8 ohm impedance", not 2 ohms but it does say it has a dual voice coil. Pyle's website has no details and no frequency response graph and says its frequency response is from 60Hz to 4kHz which is not low enough for a subwoofer, it is an ordinary woofer. They also do not show a recommended enclosure design.

I set my bass volume at 90%, will I still have the 10% distortion? dnot know how bad can 10% distorion sounds, but I think its a little

A volume control is not calibrated so that when it is max then the amplifier produces its rated power. The amplifier usually has more gain so that you can still turn up the volume when the sound source level is low. Then maybe with most sound sources the rated power is produced when the volume control is set to 60% of max. A volume control is not linear anyway, instead it is logarithmic. So you can set the volume control for 10%, 20% and maybe 50% distortion and you will not know the distortion at any physical volume control setting.

An amplifier can have its volume control turned up too high so the output has 10% distortion with a 2 ohm speaker, a 4 ohm speaker, an 8 ohm speaker or with no speaker. It is clipping. Do you know what is "clipping"? Clipping is when the output level of an amplifier has reached its maximum level and can go no higher even when the input goes higher. It produces severe distortion.

Almost everybody can hear 1% distortion and I can hear 0.2% distortion that adds a buzz to the sound and makes it unclear. Amplifier and speaker manufacturers say the power at 10% distortion because then the power number is higher than the real undistorted power. 50% distortion produces double the real maximum undistorted power. The subwoofer amplifier you are buying produces 100W of distorted power or 60W of low distortion power into 2 ohms.

Also 4 ohms the little speakers are rated at 200w, surely 50w will sound mo re than enoought for me, and what reliefe if subwoofer can deliver a lot more so it also performs good movements.

The stereo amplifiers produce 50W per channel with 10% distortion into 4 ohms. Then the power is about 30W before clipping distortion begins. 100W is not a lot more than 50W. 60W is not a lot more than 30W. Their levels are just a little bit different. 10 times the power sounds twice as loud.

Brian, the amplifier is "2.1" so it has a stereo mids and highs amplifier and one subwoofer amplifier. I would guess than the subwoofer amplifier already has the stereo channels added into mono and already has a lowpass filter. It has no spec's, no manufacturer's name and no schematic.

 

[Johanx2]

I will scan it with proper microscope lense so we can see what have done these chinese genius hehe.

Here's the data sheet and specs of the pyle I am using as sub, don't judge as it if was supposed to used any other side than a regular room, or a regular size living room.

2x4ohms coils, so it can be put into 2ohm, for being a discrete amplifier/woofer, I think it will surprise with its sound. I am using the same enclosure factores, size and port size, so I will get the maximum possible performance.

 

[Audioguru]

I am glad you found a Pyle subwoofer with a detailed datasheet. It should be fine in the recommended ported enclosure except it cannot play very low frequencies.
Its surround is foam instead of rubber so it will not last long.

 

[Johanx2]

I am glad you found a Pyle subwoofer with a detailed datasheet. It should be fine in the recommended ported enclosure except it cannot play very low frequencies.
Its surround is foam instead of rubber so it will not last long.

Oh! I did not know that data, well at least it would be in its best scenario. I also did not know about the surround, will later look for another brand, this is ok for first tries, can you tell me a good brand which has good quality price relation and its 8"

 

[Johanx2]

Oh! I did not know that data, well at least it would be in its best scenario. I also did not know about the surround, will later look for another brand, this is ok for first tries, can you tell me a good brand which has good quality price relation and its 8"

Anyway for the power it is going to receive (no more than 50w), I think it will last almost forever. Next enclosure I will try to get a better driver, what do you think about pyramid? they have a 8" @ 200w rms, which would be perfect for an amp that delivers about 100-150W, which I think its going to be my next proyect if keep in the same range size (8") and voice drivers no more larger than 6.5". So will I take care of the surround being made of rubber? it makes sense, although have to say that for example this pyle 8, its surrounds its made foam, but enough reinforced, so that factor plus not pushed to the limit because not enough whatts, maybe no big deal.

 

[Audioguru]

There are many places that sell replacement foam surrounds for woofers because after a few years the foam "rots" and falls to pieces. Butyl rubber or polyurethane surrounds are much better and last "forever".
Here is a photo of a typical rotted foam surround:

 

[Johanx2]

There are many places that sell replacement foam surrounds for woofers because after a few years the foam "rots" and falls to pieces. Butyl rubber or polyurethane surrounds are much better and last "forever".
Here is a photo of a typical rotted foam surround:

Oh I see, as I said, will do two or three enclosures, if I give one system built for me to my mother, girl friend or aunt, I supposed a pyle has more than enough to fulfill their sound demands, although will try to make sure next speaker I buy has rubber surround. Are you sure these that pyle have are garbage? I mean, they are foam, but compared to the old age speakers which also were made of foam, these new ones looks a lot more reinforced, maybe just compromised at fully over rated powers. Anyway it would be nice having one of these characteristics just to see what have to offer on demand.

 

[Johanx2]

I still also thinking in an option that maybe would we finalist, why not buying a bluetooth, mp3, sd,aux, usb CAR STEREO with lots of features, nice display/cover, and put it into my enclosure, so I forget these amplifiers bluetooth built we have thinking about, at least this device (have seen option from 10-30 dollars on ebay) ncie some of them nice design and features, I can easily feed with it the voice speakers, and wire a mono amplifier to it, so there is from where I get the third powerful channel, which will be the force added factor (bass). I want to build something interesting as cheap as possible, so I can give people I want without being something very expensive to my wallet, I mean, this is great for gift for parties, and you mention that has built for you hehe, double special. I think this final option is very special, because I get a lot of features than using a board with limit capabilities, the car stereo will have also EQ and some display maybe showing spectrum analyzer, there are many options on ebay from ranges 10-30 dollars and up, you wont believe how cool is the $10 ha ha ha, and all the nice specs it has, of course including bluetooth, and usb, that everything started trying to add usb to my amplifier board, then I thought, hell, its a lot nice adding a car estereo, will I will connect to the 24v power supply I bought, but using a type of efficient voltage regulator just to feed to with 14v, which I think is the voltage battery gives when full?

I have thought this before, the car stereo in my nice party enclosure, but now I am talking about it seriously as a potential and nice option. Now only thing is to deal with the lights, thing that wont be a problem thanks to the schematic of friend Bet... which I can directly connect it directly into the speaker terminals if convenient, this is so exciting for me, there are products so incredible outside. I think still I am going with a mono amplifier that gives 100W at 2@ with 10% distortion, for me its little, and more talking about a subwoofer driver, which is more tolerable, also that thing only will occur in very high demand with is unusual for most people.

 

[Audioguru]

A car stereo advertised as "200 Whats" produces only 15 real Watts per channel (4 channels) at full output into 4 ohm speakers. No subwoofer amplifier.
Very powerful car amplifiers use a voltage stepup circuit in their power supply.

 

[Johanx2]

A car stereo advertised as "200 Whats" produces only 15 real Watts per channel (4 channels) at full output into 4 ohm speakers. No subwoofer amplifier.
Very powerful car amplifiers use a voltage stepup circuit in their power supply.

Anyway I ended passing out from that option. Thanks.

 

[Johanx2]

A car stereo advertised as "200 Whats" produces only 15 real Watts per channel (4 channels) at full output into 4 ohm speakers. No subwoofer amplifier.
Very powerful car amplifiers use a voltage stepup circuit in their power supply.

I have another question, you see that my speaker box has 2 5.25" speaker drivers (that can play bass at certain degree) and a third driver designed for low frequencies, because I already will have a bass subwoofer in the enclosure, if I add a mid range filter to those speakers, so no bass will make them vibrate (by the way, they have isolated chamber) if I add them a proper mid range filter, to completely no make them vibrate with low frequency, will I reduce the current that amplifier takes from power supply? surely will do this, so the power supply will have less work load with those speakers now just playing mids and highs with their tweeters.

 

[c_mitra]

There are many places that sell replacement foam surrounds for woofers because after a few years the foam "rots" and falls to pieces. :

The paper cone was supported at the edges and the voice coil mounted on the cone actually floats in the magnetic field. The picture shows that the paper (it can be polymer material) cone support (it is thinnest at the edges and thick in the middle) has gone (I do not know where and how). The thick ring (with cutouts for the mounting holes) is the proper foam to prevent sound leak.

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I have another question, you see that my speaker box has 2 5.25" speaker drivers .

What is a speaker driver? Is that a speaker or a passive filter for the speaker?

 

[Johanx2]

The paper cone was supported at the edges and the voice coil mounted on the cone actually floats in the magnetic field. The picture shows that the paper (it can be polymer material) cone support (it is thinnest at the edges and thick in the middle) has gone (I do not know where and how). The thick ring (with cutouts for the mounting holes) is the proper foam to prevent sound leak.

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What is a speaker driver? Is that a speaker or a passive filter for the speaker?

I was talking completely about the speaker, the whole basket, not filter. This speaker came with two tweeters, they both have filters obviously, but main 5.25" speaker, does not, so this driver will try to play bass at some frequency, I was thinking in adding a filter, so no bass come in, only voice and medium sounds, because as I mentioned, theres no need for playing some bass there. Some years ago I had a panasonic system, and each baffle had two cables, once for the mid and highs, and one for subwoofer, the speaker for mids had a filter, so it was not able to reproduce low frequencies. Not sure how convenient would be if I do the same with "my system", maybe I can drop the current need at some point if I add the filters to those speakers, but not sure if grateful having that some more high bass there, although its not like the main subwoofer enclosure its going to be very low with this cheap pyle driver. Data sheet told me that the ported enclosure frequency its going to be 44Hz. So after all maybe not bad disappearing the bass from the pair of speakers and only pointed them to play voice, mid sounds and of course, the highs.

The foam surround this pyle has, its nice, its hard enough, and its label at the box as it being a specially treated surround foam. A shame my amplifier its delayed, anyway today I order all the electronics, I have never ordered one thousand things on ebay, the list was enormous and I ended spending some hundreds, because many items, tools, etc etc, just toys for men, you know hehe.

I also ordered lm311, irf530 and many other things I got from here, hope to make something interesting next weeks once everything is arrived. At least you already looked the concept of the corner enclosure I have planned, want to make this for me a play for kid and do several things, my head is always like always thinking about that convincing me that I will get fun with the several things I am going to build. Audio its in interesting topic, hope to also study correctly all the related stuff about that, you know, at a more primordial level than knowing many components and read schematics but not design them. I also have planned study about arduino world, which I believe is usable at audio, have heard that thing is usable and demanding for almost every electronic application.

 

[Johanx2]

Well, could not it be edited: I have been thinking in the amazing comparator schematic our friend betwitx gave us and some possibilities with it, I have been thinking on that, and RGB leds instead!, there is on ebay a 1$ very little stick that commands a RGB led strip or even a single RGB led SMD module, it seems like you connect this stick to a power source, and this stick outputs voltage in certain forms and patterns, color, color patterns, fadings, stroboscopic and everything at the same or random movements, the interesting thing, is that we can play and switch the cables "after the stick module" so we dont interrumpt its operations, we just play with disconnecting/connecting the load, and!!!! I had the idea of linking a solid state relay (and I am here again talking about such component!) this time very interesting useful because we need it for acting "after the stick and switch the negative of RGB leds at the rhythm of the music, and when the or our leds are ON after the relay switch, will found us with another color (supposing we have activated the mode of everything randomly) so don't you think this can I a potential incredible to the simple audio rhythmic on/off led we have been talking about? that would be the most amazing option of adding that rgb controller, which supports about 144w of led light. So now we have more dinamic and complexity with the hand of that little device the relay and the comparator circuit.

I think I will change my mind and put the same led patterns that I was supossed to put in a side of the enclosure and around the woofer, but simply changing them for RGB regular size diodes, just more pins per piece now I have.) I was so crazy few hours ago thinking about this, smoking green herbal medicine and vaping tobacco, and then had the idea, but this was not the only idea, I also thought about switching a main RGB led which is 10W, and that throws its light up to the sealing room where it places. So I need to put it at the very top of everything, and diffuse the light throw a window in the enclosure, properly encrusted, so it makes a rigid window (anyway it will have in the chamber with I only have the voice drivers, so no extreme power there) so this lense (150mm diameter) diffuses more efficiently to the up the color shown with audio rhythms, I dont know guys, but I am going to build something like this for my house, that surely will impress your guests, I can get the lense from a magnifier from a dollar store or online, what a cheap thing.

How everything changes in a second, few hours ago, I ordered about 200 10mm leds (blue/green), about 12 dollars on leds hehe, i bought from one of those options where they offer a lot quantity at unbeatable price, now need to do the same again but with RGB leds, and buy the 10w led, and heatsink, and relay, and still hear about implications related, I was simply decided adding the relay as if it was a simple led on the IRF output, I supposed all I had to do is to add a resistor and see when its gated. I undestant this could be nice the first time, but then boring to always use it, but for that reasons there are switch, so you can disable the functions whenever you want, or just to turn off the bigger one and keep the small ones, or dimming them, or set just one color to be hold but audio/blinking.

I will sleep happy now that I evolve the concept, it would be interesting playing favorite songs on this thing in your dark once have interesting light effects, a joke that these components have prices around one dollar each he he, no no no, definitely will be busy next days. I gope Betwidxt, the genius behind this give me an advice or say what he thinks about this.

 

[Audioguru]

Some good quality 5.25" speakers can play low frequencies down to about 100Hz pretty well then a subwoofer is used to play lower frequencies. The 5.25" speakers should have a highpass filter to prevent the doubling power of the 100Hz to the upper frequency limit of the subwoofer. The subwoofer should have a lowpass filter to prevent the doubling of power of the upper low frequencies. The two filters are called a crossover network. It makes the sounds correct (the doubling of power causes a boomy sound) and saves some power.

The surround on a speaker must be flexible and air-tight. It is used to hold the cone centered and straight, not crooked so that it does not scrape against the magnet and there is a "spider" near the coil that holds the center. A foam surround is very cheap and does not last long. A real rubber surround costs a little more but lasts forever. "Specially treated?" They can say anything about it. I am also "specially treated" but I also fall apart sometimes.

Your Pyle 8" subwoofer in a ported enclosure tuned to 44Hz produces 44Hz at -3dB which is half maximum power but sounds only a little less than higher frequencies. The ported enclosure causes lower frequencies to drop off twice as much as a sealed enclosure so that 22Hz will be at -24dB which is fairly quiet. Some music goes down to 16Hz and gunshots and explosions in movies need the low octave that the 8" speaker cannot play. My woofers are 8" and I do not use a subwoofer (I have an 18" huge and heavy subwoofer that has never been used). My woofers produce 60Hz at -3dB and have sealed enclosures so I built bass boost circuits then they play down to 30Hz very well.

You have two woofer/midrange speakers but only one subwoofer speaker so the subwoofer needs to produce twice as much sound (+3dB) for a flat frequency response. You can compare the sensitivity of the speakers to see how much more power the subwoofer needs. The subwoofer "volume control" hopefully sets the sensitivity and not the actual volume level since the volume control should adjust the levels for all the speakers at the same time. The speaker located in the corner of a room concentrates sound from the rear into the front which increases its low frequencies sensitivity.

 

[Johanx2]

We posted same time, so you did not see my big idea hehe (prev message). Goodnight and good data from you.

 

[Audioguru]

RGB LEDs? I have many solar garden lights in my garden and in my home where I modified the circuit (I added a Schottky diode and filter capacitor) and replaced the white LED with a colors changing RGB LED.
Some of the LEDs flash the different colors and some slowly fade the colors. I also have some chasers I built, each chaser has 10 LEDs and the chasers each have a different LED color.

 

[Johanx2]

RGB LEDs? I have many solar garden lights in my garden and in my home where I modified the circuit (I added a Schottky diode and filter capacitor) and replaced the white LED with a colors changing RGB LED.
Some of the LEDs flash the different colors and some slowly fade the colors. I also have some chasers I built, each chaser has 10 LEDs and the chasers each have a different LED color.

Thats nice, I suddenly remembered that those solid relays Are DC-AC, but I just found how there are also DC-DC switching capable, which will be what I will need, I think, or is there any way for that IRF530 just switching the cable but not feeding anything? I am still confusing, I hope to clear mind tomorrow.