neazoi
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I imagine you want to use a ready-made IC, otherwise I'd have suggested a capacitor(s) and diode(s) combination, or maybe RC, or that Joule-thief circuit.
I can only think of RC and using time it takes capacitor to charge for the delay, I suspect not a good method for what you are doing. I've given up on a 0 - 100Hz frequency to voltage converter as it seems impossible at such low frequencies, and I can't count or control electrons trickling here at home, whatever reliable circuits I copy or time constants I read about
From the datasheets I read for boost converters, etc. , most seemed much of a muchness, nothing is ideal (bitter-sweet joy of putting a circuit together, eh), and 80% is pretty good, isn't it? I'd probably go with that one and use time saved searching or messing around experimenting with things that are far from ideal for other parts of circuit, or other things.
...it sounds complicated, but could work... Do you mean a high-side switch where the driver MOSFET gate is controlled by the same capacitor that will feed the LED, so the converter is on until the cap is charged, which will pull the driver MOSFET high (i.e. off); and when activated by the gravitational switch trigger signal, the cap will discharge into the LED, and by being discharged start the cycle again by pulling the MOSFET gate low and begin recharging the capacitor via the converter?
Yes, exactly this.
A little bit of experimentation is needed though with the mosfet gate thresholds.
For example, how should I ensure I will not overdrive the mosfet gate to destruction when it is on and how should I provide lowest voltage threshold from the capacitor to the gate, when it should be switched to off (a gate series zener?)
Hi,
Thanks for explaining. The Zener (they're useful but energy wasters I think) with a small? series resistor isn't a bad idea, or could it work in parallel to the gate to control max. input voltage when conducting?
What I've discovered over the past few days is that capacitors aren't linear, charging or discharging (the 1T = 63% or 1T = 37% thing), which for me at least makes them difficult to implement where a linear response is needed/wanted... Shame as they are so useful and easy to use in many other ways.
I love enable/disable pins they make certain functions a lot simpler, knowing that is available I'd choose the mcp1640 probably. I was thinking before, and not knowing much, regarding space/size and simplicity of implementation (not to say experimentation time to ensure reliable operation consistently), I'd choose the IC over the other ideas so far, - look at that: 2.3uA max, delightful.
Is connecting the vibration sensor to the enable input a viable solution? Maybe with a capacitor to lengthen any pulses it produces.
I use a discrete component design that mimics the LM3909 to flash LEDs to mark the edges of paths here as it is totally dark at night. I use a single 1.2V rechargable AA battery and a small PV panel to recharge it and inhibit the flashing during the day. It is one of my more 'over designed' projects as a while ago while building works were carried out, they were all put in storage inside boxes (hence dark all the time). When the box was opened 5 months later they were all still happily flashing!
Brian.
Your thought is helpful, but I am mostly considered post #14 as it seems a less power hungry circuit. After all what is the point (in terms of power efficiency) of keeping the output capacitor charged and cut-off the charge pump? Just totally cut off the power as on post #14.Hi again, back from the comparator marketing boardI was thinking about it, and when I remembered the output side is 3.3V (not ~1V) , I see no reason not to use a comparator powered directly from the battery to detect the capacitor voltage, when it is charged to enable or disable the converter. Could use two, but too much board space probably, to turn on at <x threshold, and another to turn off enable at >3.3V. Triggers on at either ~3.3V or off at ~0.5V just to say a number to work from.
Are there high-speed, rail-to-rail comparators with low quiescent current? I imagine there are.
Yes please post the schematic if you find it.Basically, what you need is the best compromise between low current consumption and circuit complexity, given that more complex designs may be more verstile but also use more power.
I don't think the circuit in post #14 will work well, the reason is conceptual, the charge pump has to raise the output voltage to at least twice the input voltage and if follows that the current needed to charge the output capacitor has to come from the input capacitor which is only half it's value. The input capacitor would need to be at least twice (and probably a lot higher) value that the one across the LED. That produces a further problem, the inrush current to charge the input capacitor will almost certainly be magnitudes higher than the vibration sensor is rated for.
I've lost the schematic for the design of flasher I made but it has an inhibit input so it may still be of use to you. It's a simple design using only a few discrete components and I have a spare one somewhere. I'll look for it later and trace the schematic again for you. If I remember correctly, it uses a three transistor oscillator which might be able to work in monostable mode, in other words it you trigger it once from your sensor, it would produce one flash of light from the LED then go back to sleep. I think that's what you are trying to build.
I remember running an LM3909 flasher in a fake burglar alarm unit for more than one year from a single AAA cell so it is possible to do.
Brian.
The current will be significantly higher for a few cycles and the circuit relies on a low input impedance, if you remove the capacitor the ESR of the cell will play a big part in circuit efficiency and tiny cells have a big ESR! Remember that you are trying to double the voltage to the LED and even if the circuit was 100% efficient, you would have to double the input current to achieve that.
The FET design won't work i'm afraid, firstly it needs the supply to be higher than the LED forward voltage and the knee voltage of the FET, secondly - works in reverse! the LED lights when the switch is opened, not closed!
Brian.
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