Can someone help me repair this battery?

[heyhi12]

I have a hyper ice massager that takes a 24 volt battery that seems like the charger works but the battery isn't taking charge.
I've put a meter to the charger and I'm getting 26 volts out of it.
I charged the battery a few nights in a row and it's just not giving me any output voltage on the meter.

--- Updated Dec 19, 2024 ---

Battery is 24 volts charger is for some reason 26 volts from the factory. It's a hypervolt hyper ice massager. I've never taken batteries apart but can somebody help me with this please.?

 

[BradtheRad]

Almost certainly the battery pack is encased in a plastic housing which is sealed and almost impossible to open. You might squeeze it in a vise in hopes of cracking the seal, or you might saw through the plastic. Anything you try risks cutting into the batteries. Better be careful.

Getting at each cell's electrical contacts is a further hurdle. No doubt there's a lot of cells. Test each one at a time with a plain voltmeter. Hope to find any ailing cells. To be fair you should try hooking up a couple volts to charge each one at a time. Then it's a further hurdle to remove ailing cells. Avoid overheating cells via soldering iron. Are the batteries the type that are prone to explode?

Even if you find ailing cells, there may be others waiting to go bad soon. You may decide to make your life easier by purchasing a new battery pack.

Re-assembling the battery pack won't be easy. Nor will sealing everything up again.

 

[Calm down]

It is obvious that your battery has been over discharged, causing the battery protection board to believe that the battery is faulty and therefore unable to turn on the charging function. Open your battery case and slowly charge the battery by connecting a resistor in series with a wire (skipping the battery protection board). After the voltage rises, use the original charger and protection board socket to charge.

 

[heyhi12]

Thank you, is there a video or something where r I can learn to do charge without the original charger

 

[D.A.(Tony)Stewart]

I have a hyper ice massager that takes a 24 volt battery that seems like the charger works but the battery isn't taking charge.
I've put a meter to the charger and I'm getting 26 volts out of it.
I charged the battery a few nights in a row and it's just not giving me any output voltage on the meter.

--- Updated Dec 19, 2024 ---

Battery is 24 volts charger is for some reason 26 volts from the factory. It's a hypervolt hyper ice massager. I've never taken batteries apart but can somebody help me with this please.?

Don't run down to 0% SOC in future. Leave 25% or more charge between recharges. You need a new battery.

 

[heyhi12]

Don't run down to 0% SOC in future. Leave 25% or more charge between recharges. You need a new battery.

I've been doing a little bit of research and it seems like If I open the battery and get the circuit off I can put it on a hobby charger. A little by little I'm trying to figure out how to do this but it seems possible without buying a new battery.

 

[D.A.(Tony)Stewart]

You are wasting your time.
Buy a new battery https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007961123802.html or
-

- get someone to wire the charger plug to an external power supply if it is possible to operate with the supply on it.
- use a regulated 24Vdc supply with no battery.

An old PC PSU can supply 24 V using +12 and -12 then it needs the coaxial cable and plug to work.

 

[danadakk]

I have done this on LiO tool battery packs, works great.

But do this outside your home, and only for a few sec on the connection.

 

[Calm down]

Sorry, although I often do this, I currently do not have a similar battery pack to demonstrate. If you have a regulated power supply that can adjust voltage and current, things will become relatively simple. First, adjust the OCP of the regulated power supply to around 0.1A, adjust the voltage to 24V, and then as long as the positive and negative poles are correct, you can skip the battery protection board and charge the battery pack directly. The guy upstairs is also right. It is recommended not to operate at home or to prepare an iron box containing sand. In case the battery loses control, just throw it directly into the sand box.

 

[heyhi12]

Sorry, although I often do this, I currently do not have a similar battery pack to demonstrate. If you have a regulated power supply that can adjust voltage and current, things will become relatively simple. First, adjust the OCP of the regulated power supply to around 0.1A, adjust the voltage to 24V, and then as long as the positive and negative poles are correct, you can skip the battery protection board and charge the battery pack directly. The guy upstairs is also right. It is recommended not to operate at home or to prepare an iron box containing sand. In case the battery loses control, just throw it directly into the sand box.

Thank you. I'm going to take the battery apart today see what's in there. As far as the circuit board do I just unsolder it? Also what kind of regulated power supply do I need? I rather fix this than spend a hundred bucks for a new one I could just spend a hundred bucks for a power supply and a little better knowledge for later. I like fixing things.

 

[heyhi12]

 

[heyhi12]

These are the pictures I have so far. It looks like the whole case splits in half but there's that round part on top that doesn't have a split in it. I don't want to break that part I don't know if it twists on or clicks on or it's glued on?

 

[heyhi12]

posting some updates. I got the battery cover off. There's two wires going from the battery to the circuit board . If I want to try to charge these batteries should I take off the wires coming from the board or the wires coming out of the battery? Can I take a knife and cut the plastic around these batteries?

 

[betwixt]

The problem 'heyhi12' is that isn't a single battery, inside the black case with the green top are several small cells in series. Any or all of them can be damaged and being in series, any of them can 'break the chain' and stop the whole thing working. Ideally you need to open the cell pack then test each cell individually but you might be lucky if they have all survived but are so discharged that the controller (board in the top of the unit) thinks they have gone short circuited.

You only need to lift one of the wires from the cell pack to the board, leave the other one connected, as long as the loop between cells and board is broken, no harm will come to the controller. Then you need a current limited supply producing about two volts higher than the battery pack is rated. Connect it across the wires from the cells (remember the controller is now disconnected because you removed one of the wires) plus to plus, minus to minus but limit the current to some low value, I would suggest 50mA (0.05 Amps) and leave it for 24 hours. Then disconnect the power supply, reattach the wire to the board and try charging it the normal way again.

Brian.

 

[Calm down]

The battery protection board is inside the casing and is usually not damaged, but it mistakenly believes that the battery is broken and cannot be opened for charging. The voltage regulator power supply is shown in the picture. If you frequently need maintenance, you will definitely be able to use it.

--- Updated Wednesday at 8:47 AM ---

Just to add, what Brian said is correct. It is also possible that one of the batteries in your battery pack is broken. First, test the voltage of each battery one by one. If their voltage is about average, it proves that the battery is just over discharged. Then use the above power supply to charge it. If unfortunately one of the batteries has a much lower voltage, you can only replace that battery in order to use the above method for charging (note that when replacing the battery, it is best to charge each battery separately so that the voltage of each battery is roughly the same, otherwise it may damage the voltage balance circuit on the protection board). If your battery is a lithium iron phosphate battery, its full charge voltage should be 3.6V, and if it is a ternary lithium battery, its full charge voltage should be 4.2V.

 

[BradtheRad]

should I take off the wires coming from the board or the wires coming out of the battery? Can I take a knife and cut the plastic around these batteries?

Clip the wires so insulation color will guide you to joining again. You want ease in re-soldering. Do not let battery leads touch lest heavy current short-circuits.

Give time to examine: a) what you need to cut and b) where to avoid cutting. The company wanted to make it easy to put together in the factory. They have no reason to care if you jab a knife through your palm trying to take it apart. Saving $100 isn't worth that. Is the case printed "No user-serviceable parts inside"?