"Toner Transfer": What's the Professional-use alternative?

Hello,

We know that for DIY projects, we laser-print the PCB layout on special paper, stick it on the PCB, iron it, and then itch it.

This seems like not very accurate method for professional use. What machine(s) is(are) used for the above steps for medium quantity manufacturing (~100 PCBs per day) ?

Regards

Re: "Toner Transfer": What's the Professional-use alternative?

Toner transfer for me is very fast, and satisfactorily good with quality. This method is good for fast prototyping, and DIY/home small number of PCBs. For now I make all in double sided SMD with this method, TQFP32, TQFP64, .... between SO pins sometimes I have tracks,...

For pro PCB with solder mask, hole galvanizations,.... order manufacturing of PCBs in some pro company.

For now I have 99% toner transfer from paper to PCB, and PCB is made ​​in a few minutes. Only problem what I have is hole galvanization that I cant do at home.

I use Verbatim Glossy Photo Paper 150g at temp 150C-160C, only one side of paper is good for toner, its brighter side. Printing is done on HP LaserJet printer. Hot plate iron is old reliable made in Germany with temp regulation and flat plate without holes.



One of the main things in toner transfer is to properly clean copper surface on PCB. I do this with emery and water.


For pictures of PCB examples type "pcb toner transfer examples" in Google and switch on images view.

;-)

Re: "Toner Transfer": What's the Professional-use alternative?

Hi.
Look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHDI18pIv68&list=PL6wTVBz43EonjKeX7CYEyU3FrYgOTubEq&feature=mh_lolz
I use the photo metod and the results is very good.
Example:

Hello guys,

Thanks a lot for the details and the video. However I still do not want to use toner transfer whether using iron or UV. I want something at professional level without any errors at all. I just want to know what other professional companies do? I imagine they do not use irons or UV lights...

There is no reason to get 'errors' if things are done correctly. I have used the transparency/UV/etch method for decades as an amateur. For single and double sided boards, results are as close to 'professional' as makes no difference, apart from not having plated holes.

Large scale PCB manufacturers use either screen printing or photographic methods essentially the same as hobbyist methods. 8000dpi plotters are readily available as are the transparent film rolls. Think around £6500 for that. Then, you'll need a good etching system. Hot spray etching is effective, around £1000 for a small unit. Of course, a PCB house will use bigger equipment than these for large scale duplication.

Add to that a big UV box for a few hundred quid and you can make single sided and double sided boards (without plated holes) very nicely. I can even manage simple 3-layer boards at home! With a lot of effort...

Want plated holes, or more layers? Send your design to a fab house, or invest a few tens of thousands in chemical processing, layer press, etc.

Design companies (professional) generally do simple development just the same as a good hobbyist might. For anything more, they will send the gerber files to a fab house.

If you want to have a look at some small-scale 'professional' level kit, take a look at Mega Electronics' site. I would love some of their kit, if I had the room and money.

https://www.megauk.com

@FoxyRick, Thanks! That's what I was looking for (although I am a bit shocked with the prices )

ali8 said:

Hello guys,

Thanks a lot for the details and the video. However I still do not want to use toner transfer whether using iron or UV. I want something at professional level without any errors at all. I just want to know what other professional companies do? I imagine they do not use irons or UV lights...

Click to expand...

Professional companies DO USE UV, in a slightly different way as DIYers do.
You can not avoid UV in professional PCB production. No way.

Direct laser imaging actually.