You should use a buck type regulator instead of the inefficient LM317. But how much current your solar panel can deliver?
The photo and schematic do not match:
There is no transistor in the photo,
the required potential divider across the LM317 isn't correct,
D1 ('E' I think) is across the 12V instead of in series with it although it serves no useful purpose anyway.
R2 is missing,
R3 is missing,
ZD is missing.
The design should work if built correctly but do bear in mind that the while idea of the LM317 is that is converts excess input voltage to heat so you should fit a heat sink to it. As shown in the photograph it certainly will never work.
Brian.
If you fix the output at 6.6V (after the diode) then it should work fine even without the transistor and the zener.
The regulator shall dissipate around 3W and you can use a heat sink.
What do you mean? What should I do to fix the output?
Well, it will work but it is hardly optimal.The initial circuit ("solar-charger-550x274.jpg") is correct according to your opinion?
Probably not, the rate the battery charges is mostly decided by the battery itself. Provided the current source (solar panel) can supply the current it needs, there is no advantage to using a bigger one. The power rating of a PV panel is a measure of how well it can hold its output voltage under a larger load, a higher power panel will still produce the same voltage under a heaver load. It follows that if the battery tries to draw too much current, a smaller panel may not produce enough voltage but a larger one might still work.
However, the LM317 will not allow more than about 1A to flow through it which is enough for most 6V lead acid cells and the 7W panel should be able to produce that much in direct sunlight. The second schematic (fig.11) has current limiting which also helps to prevent overloading the panel. Instead of connecting a fixed voltage across the battery, it raises it slowly from about 1.5V up to a maximum of 6V as the battery charges, this is kinder on the battery and gives some protection if a damaged battery is connected or the output is accidentally shorted out
Brian.
Instead of the Sealed Lead Acid battery that needs several Amperes to get charged, can I use Li-Ion batteries and charger with the 40 Watt, 12 Volt solar panel to both charge the Li-Ion batteries and supply the circuit?
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