Help to identify a component / coil inductor

I need to replace this component. As you can see, the top part no longer has a piece.
I'm not too familiar with electric components, but as far as I understand, it affect the performance of this component.

So, if anyone can tell me any info about this component, I would really appreciate that.

Here it is (ruler measures in mm's):
**broken link removed**

Very confusing, its labelled 4R7, which means its 4.7 ohms - a resistor!! It looks like an inductor. All that missing is a piece of its plastic case. I would leave it alone unless you are sure its faulty.
Frank

4R7 is also used to denote 4.7uH with some manufacturers.

Keith

It's a 4.7uH SMD inductor. The top is usually part of the Ferrite core so it's value will have been reduced now it's cracked.

Do a search on SMD inductors and you should find something physically interchangeable. Wurth., Toko and probably many other companies make them.

Brian.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.
I did more research and came across a company AVX, that makes inductors that look a very similar.
After going through their datasheets I came across this PDF:

https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/40/LMXNnonc-7825.pdf

Type 13E9, style C, from LMXN series has the correct dimensions.

But now, I can't find where to buy one... :sad: No one seems to have them in stock. Asked one company for a quote...
They will have to ask the factory, so I'm thinking it will not work out....

So, if they will tell me about 1 year lead time and $1 million dollars in costs, I will just buy LMXN1310M4R7CTAS instead.

You haven't told us where in the World you are so we can't advise of a local supplier but this link:https://uk.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/494r7sc/inductor-single-4-7uh-30-7-7a/dp/2062853 will take you to Farnell who have a substitute in stock for about $1.50US and have outlets in many countries. They do (at least in the UK) have a minimum order charge but it's a lot less than $1 million. :-D

Brian.

I'm in US and I have already looked at Farnell website.

Farnell, just like Mouser seem to be having a difficulty linking their product to the correct datasheets.

EDIT:
Just ordered LMXN1310M4R7CTAS and some basic soldering tools.
No idea what I will get thought... because all of the websites can't get their product information to match what it says in the datasheet...
So, will find out in a few days.

I'll forewarn you that you will have difficulty with unsoldering the old part. It isn't a skill thing, it's that the copper around it will conduct the heat away and stop the solder melting properly. Take great care and under no circumstances try to force the part off the board because you will tear the copper track from the board surface. When these things are assembled they are either soldered under a special boiling chemical or under an intense infra red heating lamp so not only the component but the surrounding board are heated up simultaneously. Trying to do the reverse with the single point of heat from a soldering iron can be very difficult. Believe me, I've been doing it for the best part of 50 years! If you haven't done soldering before, I strongly advise you to practice on something else for a while before attempting this repair.
Have fun!

Brian.

Thank you advise.
I will definitely take a great care not to damage anything farther.

I previously had some soldering experience, but it was nothing major, just soldering a few wires/components.

It looks like you can get to the part easily from the 2 sides that have the solder contacts. If you have no intentions on saving the old part, I have cut the old part off above the solder lugs. It was a lot easier to remove the individual contacts from the pad rather then trying to get the whole part. I use a fine tip wire cutter and hold it parallel to the PCB. Use downward pressure (so as not to pull the trace) and take small cuts from both side into the part until it comes off. You should then be able to heat the pad and remove the old solder tab.

the cheap soldering iron i purchased from ebay doesn't even melt the solder on the board...
and when I try to tin the tip, tin melts and instantly drops from the tip.
I never had this happen to me (used a different iron before)...

Will run to radioshack tomorrow and buy something decent.

Wipe the hot tip on a damp piece of rag, because it might be covered in grease. If that does not work, put a piece of fine sandpaper on your bench and wipe the tip on that and tin immediately.
Frank

I should have suggested a powerful iron would be needed, it's suprising how much heat can be conducted away into the board and component. I would recommend at least a 50W rated one and ideally one with temperature control. the power rating will not determine the temperature, it will however decide how quickly it can provide heat and recover from heat being absorbed from it. To put it in perspective, the industrial soldering machines I used for making that type of PCB were rated at 20KW but they did heat the whole board and solder all the components simultaneously.

Brian.